{"id":1707,"date":"2011-12-01T10:01:07","date_gmt":"2011-12-01T18:01:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rightonreplicas.com\/blog\/?page_id=1707"},"modified":"2011-12-01T13:38:39","modified_gmt":"2011-12-01T21:38:39","slug":"revellution-funny-car-revell125-kit-85-7355-review","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/www.rightonreplicas.com\/blog\/?page_id=1707","title":{"rendered":"Revellution Funny Car Revell1:25 Kit # 85-7355 Review"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Twitt\"\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>

RoR Step-by-Step Review 20111201* \u00e2\u20ac\u201c <\/span>Revellution Funny Car <\/span>Monogram Kit # 85-7355 Review <\/span><\/p>\n

\"000\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Review and Photos by Tony & Martha Gibson \"Tony<\/a> <\/span><\/p>\n

Back in the early 70s, drag racing was at it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s best with new technologies and factory backing, and some of the biggest names in auto racing.\u00c2\u00a0 Ed McCulloch was with no doubt one of the kings of funny car.\u00c2\u00a0 Even after retirement, his name lives on in record books and with fans.\u00c2\u00a0 He gained the nickname Ed \u00e2\u20ac\u0153the Ace\u00e2\u20ac\u009d McCulloch.\u00c2\u00a0 Model car and toy companies entered sponsorships with motorsport, and drag racing was one of their biggest supporters.<\/span><\/p>\n

I was truly happy to get this kit and build a bit of history in the drag racing world.\u00c2\u00a0 I wanted to do this kit justice and not just build it straight out of the box.\u00c2\u00a0 These kits needed a lot of attention to build, even box stock.\u00c2\u00a0 The chassis had twists in the dies and a lot of fit issues, and the body didn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t set right out of the box.\u00c2\u00a0 Addressing these issues will take time and patience.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a1\"<\/a>
\n1) – Revell\u00c2\u00a0 1\/25 scale Revellution Demon Funny Car Dragster.\u00c2\u00a0 Measures 8\u00e2\u20ac\u009d in length, 107 parts molded in white, clear and chrome.\u00c2\u00a0 Goodyear 2 piece vinyl drag slicks and 2 piece Goodyear Front runners.\u00c2\u00a0 Great looking, vibrant decals.\u00c2\u00a0 This version was from the 3rd release from the 90s.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a5\"<\/a>
\n5) – There was an article in Scale Auto Magazine about lowering the body to the chassis for a better stance.\u00c2\u00a0 Unfortunately, that issue couldn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t be found in time for this review, but it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s out there if you want to look.\u00c2\u00a0 Straight out of the box, the body sat too high.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a3\"<\/a>
\n3) – Part B2, rear bulkhead, is the most important.\u00c2\u00a0 This is where the drop is seen the most.\u00c2\u00a0 Less than \u00c2\u00bc inch of material was removed from the bottom (xxxx area). <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a6\"<\/a> \"a8\"<\/a>
\n6 & 8) – Evergreen\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 was glued along the back side of the reattached pieces to strengthen the rejoined parts. Use a sharp X-acto\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 knife to trim out the small sections, working a little at a time.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a4\"<\/a>
\n4) – The front bulkhead, B8, needs to be trimmed and material removed to drop the body along the rails.\u00c2\u00a0 Use a sharp blade here also to trim away the unneeded plastic.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a7\"<\/a>
\n7) – When done, the body should sit lower on the chassis and look more realistic.\u00c2\u00a0 It might not look like a lot while you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re trimming the parts, but once you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re done you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll notice the difference.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a9\"<\/a>
\n9) – When looking at the engine on the box art, there is a blower.\u00c2\u00a0 The actual kit does not offer the blower.\u00c2\u00a0 So, to stay true to the car, you must go parts shopping in another kit.\u00c2\u00a0 This is the builders choice.\u00c2\u00a0 If you go with the stock kit, you can skip this part.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 No matter which way you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ve chosen to build this motor, the directions are pretty straight forward.\u00c2\u00a0 There are a lot of fit issues, so clean the parts up very well and test fit everything before gluing.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a11\"<\/a>
\n11) -\u00c2\u00a0 For this build, the blower parts were taken from the Revell Gene Snow drag racing kit.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a12\"<\/a>
\n12) – The direction sheet from the Snow kit shows the parts that are needed, #12, 13, 14.\u00c2\u00a0 The engine from this kit is identical to the Revellution.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a10\"<\/a>
\n10)\u00c2\u00a0 – From the Revellution kit, you will eliminate parts 13 and 14 and replace them with the blower assembly from the donor kit.\u00c2\u00a0 It can be confusing when going between two sets of directions since parts are numbered differently.\u00c2\u00a0 Keep your parts organized and the assembly will go together easily.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a2\"<\/a>
\n2) – If you are going to use a blower, material will have to be removed from the upper interior panel.\u00c2\u00a0 Some material will also have to be removed from the rear of this panel to accommodate the roll cage for the rear bulkhead.\u00c2\u00a0 If you did not drop the body you do not have remove these areas.\u00c2\u00a0 If you do not lower the car AND you do not use a blower, you can skip this step altogether.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a13\"<\/a> \"a17\"<\/a>
\n13, 17) – \u00c2\u00a0This kit was destined to be very detailed.\u00c2\u00a0 To do this, a lot of research needs to be done.\u00c2\u00a0 There are quite a few websites on vintage drag racing that are great resources.\u00c2\u00a0 If you have access to an old Revell Don Prudhomme 1\/16 kit, you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll have a great set of directions <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a18\"<\/a> \"a19\"<\/a>
\n18, 19) -\u00c2\u00a0 These kit instruction show where lines, hoses and wires connect.\u00c2\u00a0 The motors are basically the same, regardless of the scale, and should lead you in the right direction.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a14\"<\/a> \"a15\"<\/a>
\n14, 15,) – Using the direction sheet makes line, hose and wire placement easier. They will not only let you know where they go on the engine, but where they end up on other parts of the car.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a37\"<\/a> \"a38\"<\/a>
\n37, 38) – It\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s time consuming and can be frustrating when working with these small pieces and parts.\u00c2\u00a0 Be patient and you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll be rewarded.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a16\"<\/a> \"a23\"<\/a>
\n16, 23) – The detailing items used were easy to get and inexpensive.\u00c2\u00a0 Most items were found at Hobby Lobby in the jewelry section.\u00c2\u00a0 If you have one of these stores near you, watch their sales and you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll get a good deal.\u00c2\u00a0 The most expensive part was the distributor kit which was an aftermarket product.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a24\"<\/a> \"a25\"<\/a>
\n24, 25) – You can drill the kit distributor out and use the stretch jewelry cord, which comes in lots of colors.\u00c2\u00a0 The local modeling hobby shops and aftermarket parts companies are great and they have fantastic products that are very hard to reproduce.\u00c2\u00a0 However, if you build on a budget, there are other places to get the bits and pieces you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll need.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a20\"<\/a> \"a21\"<\/a>
\n20, 21) – The 1\/16 kit came with fuel lines to the blower, but the Revellution kit didn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t.\u00c2\u00a0 These were built out of stainless steel wire, .5mm gage.\u00c2\u00a0 This was bent using tweezers and pliers.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a22\"<\/a>
\n22) – Again, this is time consuming and requires a lot of patience, but the end effect is great. \u00c2\u00a0Once completed, they were set into place with Gorilla\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 glue.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a34\"<\/a> \"a35\"<\/a>
\n34, 35) – If you go with the stock build you can skip this step.\u00c2\u00a0 If you put the blower in, the upper interior panel has to be rebuilt.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a43\"<\/a> \"a40\"<\/a>
\n43, 40) – The short hood scoop was removed and a new scoop was built from Evergreen\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 sheet plastic to house the blower.\u00c2\u00a0 On this build it had to be done a couple times until the fit was right. Once it was right, an emery board was used to smooth everything out and get it ready for paint.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a31\"<\/a> \"a32\"<\/a>
\n31, 32) – \u00c2\u00a0Before paint, a mock up should be done to get the fit and look for twists in the frame.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a43\"<\/a> \"a40\"<\/a>
\n43, 40) – Any issues can be addressed at this point without messing up the paint.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a26\"<\/a> \"a27\"<\/a>
\n26, 27) – Two of the things you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll notice about older kits are the amount of flashing on the parts and the die lines on the body.\u00c2\u00a0 This kit was released 3 times.\u00c2\u00a0 The flashing got worse and the die marks got worse.\u00c2\u00a0 Some clean up is definitely needed.\u00c2\u00a0 The die marks were cleaned up with 600 and 1000 grit sandpaper.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a29\"<\/a> \"a30\"<\/a>
\n29, 30) – Some body putty will be needed at the front and rear panels, where they are connected to the body.\u00c2\u00a0 A mixture of baking soda and super glue can be used as filler (Gorilla\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 glue was used here).\u00c2\u00a0 Put a light coat of the glue on the side you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll see, then sprinkle baking soda onto the glued area.\u00c2\u00a0 After everything dries and cures (at least an hour) you can use 600 and 1000 grit sand paper and a light emery board to smooth out the finish.\u00c2\u00a0 You have to take your time and be very careful when sanding, it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s easy to go too far and ruin your work.\u00c2\u00a0 Remove a little at a time.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a36\"<\/a>
\n36) – Once the body was done, it was washed with mild dish soap and water and dried completely.\u00c2\u00a0 A coat of sandable primer was applied to the whole body and allowed to dry overnight.\u00c2\u00a0 At this point, you will be able to see any sand marks left from the body work.\u00c2\u00a0 If any defects still show wet sand with 1000-1200 grit paper.\u00c2\u00a0 Repeat clean up and priming until everything looks good. Three light coats of Duplicolor\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 bright white were applied with 1 hour between coats. The car was allowed to dry and cure for several days.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a46\"<\/a>
\n46) – After the white paint was applied, it sat for 4 days.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Before the car was painted, it was all tested on the back of a plastic spoon to make sure the different brands wouldn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t cause lifting.\u00c2\u00a0 Luckily there were not issues.\u00c2\u00a0 Blue Finish Line pinstripe tape was used to mask off the fine lines between the white and blue.\u00c2\u00a0 Blue painters tape was used to cover the rest of the bottom half.\u00c2\u00a0 For the blue, Krylon\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 medium blue was used.\u00c2\u00a0 Three light, even coats were applied with 90 minutes between coats.\u00c2\u00a0 The extra dry time between coats was for extra insurance against lifting.\u00c2\u00a0 Everything sat overnight before all the tape was removed.\u00c2\u00a0 The body sat for 4 more days to make sure everything was dry and hard.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a47\"<\/a>
\n47) – No clear coat was applied.\u00c2\u00a0 Once the paint was dry it was polished Mothers\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 Fx Synwax using a bit of T-shirt material and a very light touch.<\/span><\/p>\n

The underside of the body was brush painted with flat black paint and allowed to dry completely.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a48\"<\/a> \"a50\"<\/a>
\n48, 50) – On the box art, you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll see aluminum lower body valances and rear spoiler extensions.\u00c2\u00a0 These are not supplied, so if you want them you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll have to make them yourself.\u00c2\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a49\"<\/a>
\n49) – The parts were made from thin Evergreen\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 sheet plastic.\u00c2\u00a0 There\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s a lot of measuring and cutting, but it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s well worth it.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a51\"<\/a> \"a52\"<\/a>
\n51, 52) – The parts were covered with aluminum tape.\u00c2\u00a0 This tape is used for furnace duct work and can be found at home centers (this tape was found at Walmart) and cost about $5.\u00c2\u00a0 A roll will last forever.\u00c2\u00a0 Cut the tape to approximate size, apply and rub with a hard, smooth plastic surface (the lid of a Sharpie\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 works very well).\u00c2\u00a0 Then trim to size and glue into place. For this build, regular Testors\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 glue was used to prevent clouding on the painted surface.\u00c2\u00a0 If a shinier finish is wanted, the tape can be polished before being glued into place. <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a53\"<\/a>
\n53) – Decals from older kits like this one can be very dry and brittle.\u00c2\u00a0 If this is the case, a very light coat of clear can be applied (this builder prefers Duplicolor\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 Crystal Clear) to the right side of the decals.\u00c2\u00a0 This will strengthen them a bit. Using clear coat also makes the decals thicker and stiffer, and this can cause them to be harder to lay down on curved or irregularly shaped areas.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 These decals were tested before anything else was done.\u00c2\u00a0 The bottom edge of the decal sheet had a section that told what kit they were for.\u00c2\u00a0 This was cut off and applied to a spare piece of plastic.\u00c2\u00a0 Fortunately, these decals were in good shape and did not need a clear coat.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a54\"<\/a>
\n54) – The decals were allowed to soak for 20-30 seconds, then allowed to set out of the water for about another minute to make sure they were loose from the paper.\u00c2\u00a0 A bit of Micro-Sol was applied to the feature lines (for example, the lip around the rear wheel well) before the decal was slid slowly and carefully onto the body.\u00c2\u00a0 Micro-sol was brushed over the top of the decal, then the decal was smoothed with a piece of damp paper towel.\u00c2\u00a0 These long decals can be challenging, so make sure they are allowed to soak and set long enough.\u00c2\u00a0 The decals for this kit took a very long time, approximately 10 hours to get them all done.<\/span><\/p>\n

After the decals dried overnight, they were given a coat with a spray on wax, applied like it would be to a regular car, though with a lighter touch.<\/span><\/p>\n

Some of the sponsor decals were not included with the kit.\u00c2\u00a0 These were taken from other decal kits.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a55\"<\/a> \"a56\"<\/a>
\n55, 56) – Black Bare Metal Foil\u00e2\u201e\u00a2 was used for the rear window.\u00c2\u00a0 The foil was placed, trimmed with a sharp blade, the smoothed carefully.<\/span><\/p>\n

Assembly was completed per directions and went fairly smoothly.\u00c2\u00a0 Once again, everything needs to be mocked up, there will be a lot of fit issues.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a57\"<\/a>
\n57) – This kit took a long time to build and gave me a lot of headaches.\u00c2\u00a0 There was a lot of twisting and some of the parts were very small and brittle.\u00c2\u00a0 This car took over 350 hours to build, spread out over several months.\u00c2\u00a0 If built box stock and correctly, I could have finished in about 50 hours.<\/span><\/p>\n

It would be a shame just to \u00e2\u20ac\u0153throw one of these together\u00e2\u20ac\u009d.\u00c2\u00a0 They are awesome kits and will add a lot to your collection if given a little time, patience and detail.\u00c2\u00a0 These kits can usually be found at a model car swap meet and might be a little pricey, so look around.\u00c2\u00a0 Some experience is needed to put it together correctly so it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s not a great starter kit for kids.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"a999\"<\/a>
\n999)\u00c2\u00a0 – Drag Racing Rocks!<\/span><\/p>\n

Keep the glue off the windshield<\/span>
\nTony<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Donations Humbly Accepted<\/span><\/a><\/span>
\n*All Registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n