{"id":619,"date":"2010-03-23T11:55:05","date_gmt":"2010-03-23T19:55:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rightonreplicas.com\/blog\/?page_id=619"},"modified":"2010-03-23T12:37:28","modified_gmt":"2010-03-23T20:37:28","slug":"ror-project-pc1966-slice-n-dice","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/www.rightonreplicas.com\/blog\/?page_id=619","title":{"rendered":"RoR Project PC1966 – Slice ‘N Dice"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Twitt\"\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>

RoR Project PC1966 \u00e2\u20ac\u201c Slice \u00e2\u20ac\u0153N\u00e2\u20ac\u009d Dice<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Figure<\/a>
\n1966 Mercury Comet GT Indy 500 Pace Car<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 This turned out to be one of those real intense \u00e2\u20ac\u02dckit bash\u00e2\u20ac\u2122 projects due to the availability of parts. The main components were the donor body and kit from the AMT 1967 Mercury Comet (kit #31761), Comet GT wheels from <\/span>Missing Link Resin Casters\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/a> and resin castings from the original AMT Dealer Promo 1966 Mercury Comet GT. There is also a little bit of scratch building and some fabrication involved but the end results were worth the effort. You\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll also have to top this off with a set of Fred Cady decals.<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 You\u00e2\u20ac\u2122re probably asking why go to all the trouble of resin casting and hacking two bodies together when you can just modify an old AMT Promo model, right? That\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s a great question. The answer is: cost, detail and the challenge! It\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s hard to find an original Mercury Comet GT promo car in good shape for less than $75. On the other hand you can get the decals, donor kit and wheels for under about $25 delivered, by doing some careful eBay shopping. Once you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ve got the resin casting molds made you can make more of these for your friends.<\/p>\n

The first thing I did was make the RTV silicone molds from my dealer promo car of the front and rear ends of the model. In this case I cast them at the same time by putting a putty and tape cowl around the front end and hanging the rear end into the base mold frame. You\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll need to cast the dashboard and convertible top boot as well.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 1<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 After the molds are set, pour your resin castings and let them harden. After they\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ve cooled flex the molds and remove them.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 2<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 The main donor kit is the AMT 1967 Mercury Comet (kit #31761)
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 3<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Mark the body just behind the bumper cutout for removal. File off the body squarely and evenly on both sides.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 4<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Square-up the back side of the resin casting at a similar angle to the body\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s.\u00c2\u00a0 Use a little superglue to attach the resin to the styrene body to fix it in place.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 5<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Do the same thing with the rear fascia. Note that the trunk deck lid is left intact from the donor kit and the resin section is fit into the notch there.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 6<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Now you have the basic gist of what\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s going to happen. You\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll get the crisp detail of the body and chassis for the donor kit with the necessary features from the 66 GT. Although I finished this off as a curbside kit (no opening hood) you could also complete the engine compartment if you wanted to finish that portion off too. I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ve also marked off the top to indicate where I\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll cut that off later to make the convertible top. Once the body sections are in place where needed \u00e2\u20ac\u201c use some epoxy glue on the inside joins to secure them.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 7<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Now add some modeling putty to blend in the jointed sections and sand to a smooth finish.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 8<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Use a rotary cutting tool or micro saw to remove the top sections. Leave a little extra here to file\/sand to final shape.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 9<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Now you can see the basic structure of the convertible features with a light coat of primer to show where any fine sanding is still needed.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 10<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 The donor kit comes with a convenient separate front windshield\/visor. Tape off the visors and paint them white like the rest of the interior.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 11<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 After final sanding and a tack cloth start to spray your model with some initial tacky coats of the final color.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 12<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 The paint used for this model was Plasti-Kote brand Cardinal Red. The same shade as the original pace car.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 13<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Assemble and mount the interior pieces for a light coat of primer and then some bright white satin color.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 14<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Detail the back end with some flat black in the center bar that\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s been dry brushed to highlight the chrome lettering. Wrap the taillights with some Bare Metal Foil for the reflectors.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 15<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Finish it off with a foil wrap on the bumper and paint the taillight foil with a translucent red.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 16<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 In this situation I used some chrome paint from Model Master\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s on the lower portions of the windshield frame and wrapped the top half in foil.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 17<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Bare Metal chrome foil was also used on the front bumper. The grill and headlights were simply painted with Metal Master\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s chrome silver. The internal grill ribs received a blackout treatment of thinned flat black paint. Add a little insignia orange to the turn signal indicators and a couple appropriate length 1\/16\u00e2\u20ac\u009d pin stripes for the hood scoops and the front end is finished<\/p>\n

\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 18<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Mix up a little dark red tempra paint to fill in the panel lines. Using a small brush just paint it on and after it has dried you can simply rub it off of the raised body surface leaving the darkened panel recess to set off the panel.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 19<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Now that the body is mostly finished you can add the Fred Cady decals.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 20<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 This is how the side of the car looks after all the decals are added. In cases where the decal crosses over a body panel you will need to let the decal dry then cut it at the panel line so that it sets into the crease and shows the darkened panel line recess. A little decals setting solution is helpful in getting the spliced decals to lay into the recess and stay put.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 21<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Paint the steering wheel and dashboard red like the body then begin detailing it by blacking out the instrument panel and using a dry brush to add chrome paint to the instrument bezels. This model had a chrome plate across the width of the dash so use some foil and trim it to the correct dimensions along the dash section lines.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 22<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Add some foil to the seat back brackets.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 23<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Likewise, add some foil to the center console nacelle.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 24<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 The original car had a chrome plate on the door panels as well.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 25<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Assemble all the parts in place according to the kit instructions and this is what you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll end up with.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 26<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Turning you attention to the underbody it time to decide whether to assemble the engine or not. I built this as a curbside model but I still feel that something needs to fill the engine bay for aesthetical purposes when you look at the underside of the vehicle. I made a soft mold from clay of a partially assembled engine and poured a resin casting of this \u00e2\u20ac\u0153half engine.\u00e2\u20ac\u009d
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 27<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Assemble the engine bay. Note that the firewall and radiator assembly are gloss black like the underbody but the inside fender walls are body color. The front half of the radiator assembly had to be trimmed off in order to fit it into the vehicle because of the thicker resin front end. If you wanted to make a full detail kit with an opening hood and assembled engine you would have to remove portions of the resin front end casting to allow room for the mating a sub-assemblies.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 28<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Detail the underbody by painting the parts appropriately. See how the faux painted engine looks filling up that empty space.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 29<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 The tires for this model need to have the striped filled with some gold tempra paint to emulate the gold stripes on the original pace car. Wipe off the excess after it dries.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 30<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Drybrush a round toothpick and use it as a rolling pad printer to add highlights to the \u00e2\u20ac\u0153Firestone Wide Oval\u00e2\u20ac\u009d radials.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 31<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Assemble the wheels with those Comet GT wheels from Missing Link Resin Casters. Add a little blackout treatment to the flats on those GT wheels to look just like the originals.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 32<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 To secure the chassis in position to the body I used a little bar stock and secured it with some screws to the chassis.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 33<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 A view from the underside shows the placement of the fasteners.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 34<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Drill some equally spaced holes in the rear bumper to accommodate the pace car flagpoles then glue them into place.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 35<\/p>\n

\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 Use a small drill to locate the place where you radio mast will go.
\n\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 36<\/p>\n

\"Figure<\/a>
\nFigure 37<\/p>\n

You can almost see yourself sitting there in front of the pack in that big block Mercury that sunny day on May in 1966 with the sound of racing engines revving up for the big race behind you!<\/p>\n