{"id":812,"date":"2010-09-28T19:30:19","date_gmt":"2010-09-29T03:30:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rightonreplicas.com\/blog\/?page_id=812"},"modified":"2010-10-01T05:10:27","modified_gmt":"2010-10-01T13:10:27","slug":"ror-review-20100928-%e2%80%93-the-outlaw-by-ed-roth-revell-85-4294","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/www.rightonreplicas.com\/blog\/?page_id=812","title":{"rendered":"RoR Review 20100928 \u00e2\u20ac\u201c The Outlaw by Ed Roth Revell #85-4294"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Twitt\"\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>

RoR Review 20100926 \u00e2\u20ac\u201c The Outlaw by Ed Roth Revell #85-4294<\/p>\n

Review and Build by Aaron Gibson Photos by Martha Gibson<\/p>\n

\"outlaw22\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The Revell Outlaw by Ed Roth. The kit and box art for the re-released version.
\n\"Outlaw1\"<\/a>
\nFigure1<\/p>\n

While putting the motor together I noticed that there’s a gap in the upper bell housing.\u00c2\u00a0 This can be fixed with thin part of Evergreen to cover the gap.\u00c2\u00a0 Or, since it’s in a spot that cannot really be seen, leaving the gap there is not too much of an issue. The directions (Step 1) are not really clear about the order to put it together.\u00c2\u00a0 The easiest way, is to put the left and right engine half on the engine bottom, then part #5, engine top.
\n\"outlaw2\"<\/a>
\nFigure2<\/p>\n

On the second section of engine assembly on the direction sheet, there is a part called the valley cover (part #8).\u00c2\u00a0 It does not fit onto the engine as shown in the sheet.\u00c2\u00a0 The only way to even get it to fit is to flip it over (bottom side up).\u00c2\u00a0 But, if this is done, the intake manifold will not fit properly.\u00c2\u00a0 Looking closely at the box art, this part is not even on the engine.<\/p>\n

Other than these two issues, the engine goes together fairly easily. Be careful and patient and make sure to scrape the chrome and paint off any edges that are to be glued.<\/p>\n

Since there is a lot of chrome parts, before assembly, parts can be painted and black-washed to make the engine look more realistic.\u00c2\u00a0 To black-wash, thin down some Testors flat black bottle paint then dab it around the parts.\u00c2\u00a0 Make sure the wash is very thin and only use a small amount on each part.\u00c2\u00a0 A little goes a long way.\u00c2\u00a0 If you get too much, dab lightly with a paper towel until you get the desired look.
\n\"outlaw3\"<\/a>
\nFigure3<\/p>\n

The engine and transmission assemble together fairly easy.\u00c2\u00a0 However, later on in the build a small problem was found that should have been taken care of at this point.\u00c2\u00a0 The directions show assembling the Sabre gear shift while putting together the engine and transmission.\u00c2\u00a0 However, if this is put in before the body is put on during final assembly there will be issues getting the body to line up.\u00c2\u00a0 Save some trouble, put the gear shift in after the body is on the chassis.
\n\"outlaw5\"<\/a>
\nFigure5<\/p>\n

Frame assembly is very easy.\u00c2\u00a0 Pay attention to where cross members go.\u00c2\u00a0 The directions are pretty clear but it’s possible to mess things up.\u00c2\u00a0 The rear cross member is directional.\u00c2\u00a0 The holes\/pegs in one side are larger than the other, so it’s fairly obvious.\u00c2\u00a0 Since the frame is multi-part, everything must be square.\u00c2\u00a0 Lining the front and back up on graph paper and pinning it into place helps.\u00c2\u00a0 Make sure this is done before the glue sets up.
\n\"outlaw6\"<\/a>
\nFigure6<\/p>\n

The front suspension is all chrome.\u00c2\u00a0 Make sure all glued surfaces are scraped before gluing and assembling.\u00c2\u00a0 Everything is very thin and fragile. Be patient and use a light touch.
\n\"outlaw7\"<\/a>
\nFigure7<\/p>\n

The body and interior assembly did not fit together well; there was a small gap as seen in the picture.
\n\"outlaw9\"<\/a>
\nFigure9<\/p>\n

The front of the interior tub hits a mold line for the firewall stop.\u00c2\u00a0 This is not a tough fix.\u00c2\u00a0
\n\"outlaw10\"<\/a>
\nFigure10<\/p>\n

Measure out the width of the gap and transfer that to the front of the interior tub.\u00c2\u00a0 This does not have to exact. \u00c2\u00a0Sand off a little at a time with an emery board or sand paper and retest.\u00c2\u00a0 Repeat if needed until the gap has closed.\u00c2\u00a0 DO NOT cut off the firewall stops, as this will cause problems later.
\n\"outlaw11\"<\/a> \"outlaw12\"<\/a>
\nFigure11 & Figure12<\/p>\n

After these adjustments the two parts should fit together nicely.
\n\"outlaw13\"<\/a>
\nFigure13<\/p>\n

The rear end parts are very neat and clean, the directions are fairly straight forward.\u00c2\u00a0 As shown in the picture, there are some bits of plastic that need to be sanded off (marked in red). Make sure the two male pins are not sanded off, they will be needed for assembly.\u00c2\u00a0 Make sure the chrome is scraped or sanded off all joining parts or they glue won’t hold.\u00c2\u00a0
\n\"outlaw14\"<\/a> \"outlaw15\"<\/a>
\nFigure14 & Figure15<\/p>\n

Don’t be afraid to use super glue or another fast setting glue for these parts, a soft glue won’t give the same strength or integrity when it comes time for final assembly.<\/p>\n

One note of rear assembly: When assembling the backing plates and rear radius rods make sure the directions are followed carefully.\u00c2\u00a0 These have to be on the correct side and direction.\u00c2\u00a0 Mock everything up and lay it out carefully before you glue it.
\n\"outlaw16\"<\/a>
\nFigure16<\/p>\n

To paint the interior tub, tape can be used to mask off one color and apply the next.\u00c2\u00a0 This will probably not be needed if brush paint is being used.\u00c2\u00a0 Lay the tape over the interior tub, use the pointed end of a brush handle to push the tape into the seams and trim along the seams with a hobby knife.
\n\"outlaw20\"<\/a> \"outlaw21\"<\/a>
\nFigure20 & Figure21<\/p>\n

The sample of this model was painted with Testors\u00c2\u00ae Model MastersTM<\/sup> White Lightning, which is a pearl white.\u00c2\u00a0 A base coat of Duplicolor\u00c2\u00ae flat white base is applied first and allowed to dry completely.<\/p>\n

Don’t take the decals for granted, they were not easy to apply.\u00c2\u00a0 The contour of the body, and the shape of the decals, made getting them lined up difficult.\u00c2\u00a0 Start with the side decal parts (#1 and #2), then sections #6 and #7.\u00c2\u00a0 The rest should come close to lining up.\u00c2\u00a0 After applying the decals, use a bit of t-shirt fabric to lightly press them flat, paper towel causes them to dry too quickly.\u00c2\u00a0 There may be a bit of touch up with paint and a small brush where the decals didn’t match up.\u00c2\u00a0 For those people that use clear coat over their decals, either get the clear as light as possible or skip it.<\/p>\n

Final assembly was very simple but challenging. Getting the body on was easy as long as the shifter was not put on earlier.\u00c2\u00a0 Everything is very tight, don’t get too aggressive.\u00c2\u00a0 The exhaust pipes were the hardest part due to the distance between gluing points.\u00c2\u00a0 Scrape the chrome and paint off the gluing areas and use fast-setting glue.\u00c2\u00a0 One note for the windshield, there is no template.\u00c2\u00a0 Trace the inside of the frame onto the plastic and cut it just a bit bigger.\u00c2\u00a0 Trim as needed until it’s the correct size.\u00c2\u00a0 They include a good size sheet of plastic, so if it’s not perfect the first time you’ll have another chance.<\/p>\n

This kit is rated as a Skill Level 2 experience.\u00c2\u00a0 This is probably understated and should be a Skill Level 3 kit.\u00c2\u00a0 This is not a good kit for a first time builder.\u00c2\u00a0 There are a lot of great ways to detail this kit and is pretty cool looking when it’s all done.\u00c2\u00a0 It needs a steady hand and some patience.\u00c2\u00a0 It was a little disappointed that there wasn’t a whitewall insert for the tires even though it’s shown on the box art.<\/p>\n

\"Petersen<\/a><\/p>\n

The original 1959 Outlaw is an automotive styling icon and can still be seen at the Petersen Automotive Museum in California.<\/p>\n